The situation where there aren't enough ports in the house to connect devices via wired cables is familiar to many users. Often, an old one is lying around. wireless router, which is gathering dust in a closet, and a logical question arises: can its functionality be used to expand a local network? The answer is yes, and this doesn't require complex engineering knowledge or expensive equipment.
Turning a router into switch A switch allows you to increase the number of available LAN ports while maintaining connection stability. Unlike a traditional hub, a switch intelligently distributes traffic between devices without creating unnecessary network load. This solution is ideal for connecting Smart TVs, gaming consoles, or desktop PCs, where speed and latency are essential.
In this guide, we'll cover the technical nuances of reconfiguration, how to disable conflicting services, and the proper physical cabling scheme. You'll learn how to avoid IP conflicts and make your home network more flexible and scalable without breaking the bank.
Differences between a router and a switch and the feasibility of conversion
To understand the essence of the process, it is necessary to clearly distinguish between the tasks that these devices perform. Router A router is an intelligent node that connects different networks (for example, your home network and the global internet), distributes IP addresses via a DHCP server, and manages data flows. In turn, switch (switch) operates at a lower level, simply passing data packets between devices within the same local network based on MAC addresses.
Using a router in switch mode is useful when you need to connect several wired devices and there are no free ports on the main gateway. Instead of buying new equipment, you restore the old one. However, it's important to understand that in this mode Wi-Fi module On a peripheral device, it most often stops working or works unstable because we disable its routing functions.
⚠️ Warning: After reconfiguring, the device will lose its router functionality. Do not attempt to connect the ISP's WAN cable to this peripheral port, otherwise none of the connected devices will have internet access.
The cost benefit is obvious: you get 3-4 additional Gigabit Ethernet ports practically for free. Furthermore, older router models often feature metal casing and high-quality components, making them more reliable than cheap entry-level plastic switches. The key is to configure the software correctly to avoid address conflicts.
Preparing for setup: resetting and entering the interface
Before making any changes to your network settings, it's crucial to clean up your device. If your router still has settings from a previous provider or another network, they can cause unpredictable behavior. Therefore, the first step should always be full reset (Hard Reset) to factory settings.
To perform a reset, find the button on the case Reset or WPS/ResetPlug the device into a power outlet and wait for it to boot up. Press the button with a thin object (a paperclip or toothpick) for 10-15 seconds until the indicators flash simultaneously. After this, the router will reboot to factory settings.
Now you need to connect to the device for setup. Connect your computer to any LAN port peripheral router using a patch cord. Make sure your PC's network card is set to obtain an IP address automatically. Open a browser and enter the address printed on the sticker on the bottom of the case (often this is 192.168.0.1 or 192.168.1.1). Enter your login and password (usually by default admin/admin).
☑️ Preparing the device
Changing your IP address to avoid conflicts
The most common mistake when creating a router cascade is the overlap of IP addresses. If your main router has an address 192.168.1.1, then a peripheral device operating as a switch cannot have the same address. No two devices on the network can have the same IP address, otherwise a conflict will arise and the network will crash.
Needs to be changed LAN IP address secondary router. Go to the local network settings section (often called LAN, Network or Local area network). Change the last digit of the address to any free one, for example, 192.168.1.254 or 192.168.1.2The main thing is that this address is in the same subnet as the main router, but not the same.
After saving the settings, the router will prompt you to reboot. From now on, you'll be able to access the control panel using the new IP address. Make a note of this IP address so you can return to the settings in the future if you need to change them.
Disabling the DHCP Server: A Critical Step
Function DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol) is responsible for automatically assigning IP addresses to connected devices. Your network should only have one DHCP server running—on the main router that distributes the internet. Leaving this feature enabled on the peripheral device (which we're converting into a switch) will cause chaos: devices will receive incorrect gateway and DNS addresses, resulting in loss of network access.
To disable, find the section in the menu DHCP Server or DHCP settings. Select an option Disable (Disable) or uncheck "Enable DHCP server." Save the changes. From now on, the device will stop offering addresses to new clients and will simply forward them to the main router.
After disabling DHCP, your computer may lose connection to the router because it no longer receives an IP address automatically. You may need to manually assign a static IP address to your PC's network card (e.g., 192.168.1.10) to access the interface, or simply reconnect if the main router provides an address.
⚠️ Important: If you lost access to your router settings after disabling DHCP, check the IP address assigned to your PC. It should be in the same subnet. If necessary, use static addressing to access the control panel using the new IP address.
Physical connection and configuration of the Wi-Fi module
Once the software is configured (IP changed, DHCP disabled), we move on to the physical connection. There's an important detail here: the cable from the main router should not be plugged into the port. WAN (Internet), and to one of the ports LANThis is the key difference that turns a router into a switch. The WAN port is not used in this mode and is often blocked by software.
The connection diagram looks like this: a cable from the main router's LAN port is inserted into any available LAN port on our peripheral device. All other devices (PCs, TVs) that need to be connected to the network are also plugged into available LAN ports on the peripheral router.
Regarding the wireless network: on many models, with this setup, Wi-Fi continues to work, broadcasting the main router's network (if the names and passwords match) or creating a separate access point. However, if you're specifically targeting a switch, it's best to disable Wi-Fi in the settings (Wireless -> Disable) to reduce the load on the processor and electromagnetic background.
What if you still need a WAN port?
On some advanced models (such as MikroTik or routers running OpenWrt firmware), you can programmatically reassign the WAN port as an additional LAN port. On standard home routers (TP-Link, ASUS, D-Link), this feature is usually unavailable, and the WAN port remains unused.
Comparison Table: Router vs. Switch in the Context of Configuration
To reinforce this information, let's review the main differences in the configurations we've used. Understanding these differences will help us diagnose network problems more quickly in the future.
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| Parameter | Router Mode (Standard) | Switch Mode (Our setup) |
|---|---|---|
| Connecting the provider's cable | To the WAN (Internet) port | It doesn't connect. |
| Connection from the main router | Not required | To the LAN port |
| DHCP Server | On | Turned off |
| Device IP address | Unique in its subnet | Unique, in the subnet of the main network |
| NAT function | Active | Not used |
As the table shows, we've effectively transformed the smart device into a "dumb" switch, leaving it with only Layer 2 switching functions. This ensures maximum compatibility and minimizes latency.
Possible problems and solutions
During the setup process, you may encounter a number of common issues. For example, the devices connect, but there is no internet. This most often means that DHCP The second router was forgotten to be turned off, or the main router is issuing addresses from a range incompatible with the second device's subnet.
Another common issue is the inability to access the secondary router's settings after changing the IP address. In this case, make sure your computer is on the same subnet. If the primary router is distributing addresses 192.168.0.x, and you gave the second one an address 192.168.1.254, there will be no connection without manually registering the IP on the PC.
It's also worth considering port speed. If your old router has Fast Ethernet ports (100 Mbps), and your internet connection is faster, it will become a bottleneck. For connections above 100 Mbps, you need a router with gigabit ports (Gigabit Ethernet).
⚠️ Note: Interfaces and menu names may vary depending on the manufacturer (TP-Link, ASUS, Zyxel, Keenetic) and firmware version. Always consult the official documentation or search for similar menu items.
☑️ Problem diagnostics
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Will Wi-Fi work if I configure the router as a switch?
In most default firmware versions, Wi-Fi remains active, but it will only broadcast the main router's network if you manually set the same name (SSID) and password. However, since DHCP is disabled, the main router will distribute IP addresses over Wi-Fi. Some models may completely disable the module when operating in bridge/switch mode.
Is it possible to use the WAN port on the edge router in this mode?
Usually no. In switch mode (LAN-to-LAN), the WAN port on the secondary device is not used. All traffic goes through the LAN ports. Using the WAN port is only possible in "Access Point" mode, if the firmware supports this feature, but this is a slightly different setup scenario.
Do I need to set up a password for the second router's Wi-Fi?
If you're using its wireless function, you'll need to set up a password for security. But if you're only targeting wired ports, it's best to completely disable wireless radiation in the settings (Wireless Settings -> Enable Wireless -> Off), so as not to create unnecessary interference and reduce performance.
Why did the internet disappear on connected devices after setup?
Most likely, the DHCP server on the peripheral router is still enabled and conflicting with the main router. Or, the cable from the main router is plugged into the WAN port instead of the LAN port. Check these two things first.